IRISH TRIP 2

 

View of Valentia Island from Geokaun Mountain. Photo by Valerie O’Sullivan.

How we got there. 

Day  1: Train from Lewes to London Bridge at 6:50. Taxi to Euston (arriving with 5 mins to spare!).

9:10 train to Holyhead. Ferry to Dublin (approx 3hrs 15 mins).

First view of Ireland from the deck of the Ulysses, which claims to be the largest car ferry in the world. Calm seas and brilliant skies.

Taxi and tram to Heuston station. Train from Dublin to Cork, arriving about 9:45. A long day. 

Right: View from the window of the train to Cork.

Costwise, the train/ferry trip is excellent value: £48 return. You cannot break the journey going but you can on the way back. We found out the details from the excellent website The Man on Seat 61

 

Left: No-handed station clock at Mallow.

Day 2: Train from Cork to Killarney via Mallow.

 

 

 

Bus from Killarney to Cahirsiveen.

This must be one of the most scenic journeys in Europe with stunning views of the beautiful mountains that form what is called the Ring of Kerry.

Taxi from Cahirsiveen to Reenard Point where we got on board the tiny ferry that travels backwards and forwards to the island all day. Journey time: 5 mins.

Where we stayed: Atlantic Villa, the former cable master’s house, run by Jackie and Brian. Fantastic B&B, beautifully fitted out, substantial breakfasts. Highly recommended. We were in the attic room with great views over the bay.

IRISH TRIP 3

Illustrations from top:

1. Map showing the various cables laid from the island

2. First-day cover celebrating the 150th Anniversary of the laying of the first Transatlantic Cable

3. Surviving members of the Western Union workers on the island, standing behind the commemorative monument created by local sculptor Alan Ryan Hall.

4. Photo of part of the cable history exhibit in the Valentia Island Heritage Centre.

5. The surviving cable station building and telegraphers’ accommodation on the island.

6. Another historic plaque erected by in 2000 by the Institute if Electrical and Electronics Engineers.

6. An excellent history of the island by Nellie O’Connor published by the Dublin-based Portobello Press in 1992, which includes an excellent history of Valentia’s cable history.

The history and heritage of the cable business on Valencia Island is still very much alive and important to the current inhabitants as I discovered. Early attempts to link Valentia and Heart’s Content in Newfoundland – the shortest route between Europe and America  - using  the American Niagara  and the British Agammemon naval vessels were only partially successful. The  first working cable was subsequently laid using Brunel’s giant ship the Great Eastern. Western Union established themselves on the island and were active there until 1966. The importance of Valentia Island in the history of communication is assured. Had a long conversation with 90-year-old Dick Smith and worked out that his dad might have known my dad but was  unable to find any direct memories or pictures of him. However and happily have arranged to lodge a picture of my dad in the Heritage Centre – so his presence will now form a small part of the history of the cable story on the island. I think he would have liked that.

For more information see the History of the Atlantic Cable & Undersea Communications website.

IRISH TRIP 4

 

Various views of and from Knightstown, the main settlement on Valentia, an island which has a total population of 650 people and 200 cars and measures approximately 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) long by almost 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) wide.It is one of Europe’s westernmost inhabited locations. More information on the Valentia Island website. The island has two excellent pubs  - The Royal Hotel and Bostons – where we sampled the local Guinness and Black Label Bushmills, played pool  and communed with the locals. On our first night, there was a lock-in. Standing outside the bar, under the full-moon, we turned around and there was a large hare sitting in the middle of the road.

 

The sculptor and painter Alan Ryan Hall in the front room of his beautiful house in Kingstown, where we talked about Davy Graham and Rodin and shared coffee with a dash of the hard stuff to keep the conversation flowing.

 

 

 

 

We hired a car for the weekend and drove round the island and vicinities. Above is the sign pointing to the Tetrapod trackway (which is 85m years old), a small black lizard in the grass and a delightful vernacular house, one of a very few on the island.

 The slate quarry was another major industry on Valentia. Still worked to a smaller extent. The grotto above is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, whose statue sits high above.

This house was made famous by a Guiness ad which described it as the remotest pub in Britain. Painted on the side is ‘O’Sheas. Next pint, New York. In fact its a private house and the whole thing was mocked up for the advert.

We walked over the peat bogs where there were beautiful wild flowers, a wee green beetle and great swathes of bog cotton, one strand of which I picked and preserved in my note book. The cliffs were magnificent, the wild sea various shades of blue and turquoise. The wind filled our lungs with fresh air from the Atlantic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day we attempted to drive around the mainland but got lost in the mist and retreated to The Bridge in Portmagee to eat and drink and listen to some great Irish music.

IRISH TRIP 5

Reluctantly we left Valentia Island, which will always remain close to our hearts and caught a coach and two trains which carried us to Dublin in about five-and-a-half hours. Bit of a contrast. Stayed at the Gate Hotel off O’Connell. Cheap and cheerful (39 euros a night a twin room) with a Rock Bar below.

Visited the Writer’s Museum and the Hugh Lane Gallery. The latter now houses Francis Bacon’s studio, lovingly reassembled to form a unique display. The gallery has a wonderful collection of Corot paintings and a small Degas sculpture which was a beautiful thing. Here is the one drawing I made on the trip.

Most of our time was spent in the Temple Bar district where we enjoyed the sights and sounds, drank the Guinness, ate oysters, listened to music and enjoyed conversation and the craic. Below our two favourites – O’Neills and McDaid’s. 

 

So hear we are looking refreshed and revived on our last night. This very special trip would have not been possible without the following: Tanya, Pete & Harry, Manek & Hazel, Richard, Mike and Caroline, Ed, Martin, Mick & Sarah, Russell, Fran and Lindsey, Andy & Phillida, Ian&Debbie, David M, Flo & Bridget, Nick Davies, Gordon& Kathryn, Jo, Katie and many other friends at the Lewes Arms & The Con Club. Special love and thanks to my son Al for having the idea, making it happen and being my Passpartou.