IRISH TRIP 2

 

View of Valentia Island from Geokaun Mountain. Photo by Valerie O’Sullivan.

How we got there. 

Day  1: Train from Lewes to London Bridge at 6:50. Taxi to Euston (arriving with 5 mins to spare!).

9:10 train to Holyhead. Ferry to Dublin (approx 3hrs 15 mins).

First view of Ireland from the deck of the Ulysses, which claims to be the largest car ferry in the world. Calm seas and brilliant skies.

Taxi and tram to Heuston station. Train from Dublin to Cork, arriving about 9:45. A long day. 

Right: View from the window of the train to Cork.

Costwise, the train/ferry trip is excellent value: £48 return. You cannot break the journey going but you can on the way back. We found out the details from the excellent website The Man on Seat 61

 

Left: No-handed station clock at Mallow.

Day 2: Train from Cork to Killarney via Mallow.

 

 

 

Bus from Killarney to Cahirsiveen.

This must be one of the most scenic journeys in Europe with stunning views of the beautiful mountains that form what is called the Ring of Kerry.

Taxi from Cahirsiveen to Reenard Point where we got on board the tiny ferry that travels backwards and forwards to the island all day. Journey time: 5 mins.

Where we stayed: Atlantic Villa, the former cable master’s house, run by Jackie and Brian. Fantastic B&B, beautifully fitted out, substantial breakfasts. Highly recommended. We were in the attic room with great views over the bay.

IRISH TRIP 3

Illustrations from top:

1. Map showing the various cables laid from the island

2. First-day cover celebrating the 150th Anniversary of the laying of the first Transatlantic Cable

3. Surviving members of the Western Union workers on the island, standing behind the commemorative monument created by local sculptor Alan Ryan Hall.

4. Photo of part of the cable history exhibit in the Valentia Island Heritage Centre.

5. The surviving cable station building and telegraphers’ accommodation on the island.

6. Another historic plaque erected by in 2000 by the Institute if Electrical and Electronics Engineers.

6. An excellent history of the island by Nellie O’Connor published by the Dublin-based Portobello Press in 1992, which includes an excellent history of Valentia’s cable history.

The history and heritage of the cable business on Valencia Island is still very much alive and important to the current inhabitants as I discovered. Early attempts to link Valentia and Heart’s Content in Newfoundland – the shortest route between Europe and America  - using  the American Niagara  and the British Agammemon naval vessels were only partially successful. The  first working cable was subsequently laid using Brunel’s giant ship the Great Eastern. Western Union established themselves on the island and were active there until 1966. The importance of Valentia Island in the history of communication is assured. Had a long conversation with 90-year-old Dick Smith and worked out that his dad might have known my dad but was  unable to find any direct memories or pictures of him. However and happily have arranged to lodge a picture of my dad in the Heritage Centre – so his presence will now form a small part of the history of the cable story on the island. I think he would have liked that.

For more information see the History of the Atlantic Cable & Undersea Communications website.

IRISH TRIP 4

 

Various views of and from Knightstown, the main settlement on Valentia, an island which has a total population of 650 people and 200 cars and measures approximately 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) long by almost 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) wide.It is one of Europe’s westernmost inhabited locations. More information on the Valentia Island website. The island has two excellent pubs  - The Royal Hotel and Bostons – where we sampled the local Guinness and Black Label Bushmills, played pool  and communed with the locals. On our first night, there was a lock-in. Standing outside the bar, under the full-moon, we turned around and there was a large hare sitting in the middle of the road.

 

The sculptor and painter Alan Ryan Hall in the front room of his beautiful house in Kingstown, where we talked about Davy Graham and Rodin and shared coffee with a dash of the hard stuff to keep the conversation flowing.

 

 

 

 

We hired a car for the weekend and drove round the island and vicinities. Above is the sign pointing to the Tetrapod trackway (which is 85m years old), a small black lizard in the grass and a delightful vernacular house, one of a very few on the island.

 The slate quarry was another major industry on Valentia. Still worked to a smaller extent. The grotto above is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, whose statue sits high above.

This house was made famous by a Guiness ad which described it as the remotest pub in Britain. Painted on the side is ‘O’Sheas. Next pint, New York. In fact its a private house and the whole thing was mocked up for the advert.

We walked over the peat bogs where there were beautiful wild flowers, a wee green beetle and great swathes of bog cotton, one strand of which I picked and preserved in my note book. The cliffs were magnificent, the wild sea various shades of blue and turquoise. The wind filled our lungs with fresh air from the Atlantic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day we attempted to drive around the mainland but got lost in the mist and retreated to The Bridge in Portmagee to eat and drink and listen to some great Irish music.

IRISH TRIP 5

Reluctantly we left Valentia Island, which will always remain close to our hearts and caught a coach and two trains which carried us to Dublin in about five-and-a-half hours. Bit of a contrast. Stayed at the Gate Hotel off O’Connell. Cheap and cheerful (39 euros a night a twin room) with a Rock Bar below.

Visited the Writer’s Museum and the Hugh Lane Gallery. The latter now houses Francis Bacon’s studio, lovingly reassembled to form a unique display. The gallery has a wonderful collection of Corot paintings and a small Degas sculpture which was a beautiful thing. Here is the one drawing I made on the trip.

Most of our time was spent in the Temple Bar district where we enjoyed the sights and sounds, drank the Guinness, ate oysters, listened to music and enjoyed conversation and the craic. Below our two favourites – O’Neills and McDaid’s. 

 

So hear we are looking refreshed and revived on our last night. This very special trip would have not been possible without the following: Tanya, Pete & Harry, Manek & Hazel, Richard, Mike and Caroline, Ed, Martin, Mick & Sarah, Russell, Fran and Lindsey, Andy & Phillida, Ian&Debbie, David M, Flo & Bridget, Nick Davies, Gordon& Kathryn, Jo, Katie and many other friends at the Lewes Arms & The Con Club. Special love and thanks to my son Al for having the idea, making it happen and being my Passpartou.

VERNACULAR BOOK PUBLICATION WEEK

 
This week sees the publication of my book on Vernacular Architecture by Thames & Hudson in the UK.

To follow are the US and Italian editions by Rizzoli (pictured below).



  



 
REVIEWS:

 LEFT: Review in The Scotsman (5.6.10)
Review in the Financial Times by Nicole Swengley
‘It was a jolt to learn that most people in the world (roughly 80 per cent) live in self-built homes. And, if ever there was a case against the rush to concrete urban jungles, this captivating book makes it in the most charming way. ‘ www.ft.com/cms/s/2/07338b8e-6ea7-11df-ad16-00144feabdc0.html
Review on the US website Dexigner:
‘…this book offers a knowledgeable and encompassing presentation.’ www.dexigner.com/architecture/news-g20256.html    
Message from Norm Weinstein in the US:  Attached is a link to a webinar I'm giving next week where I'll speak highly of your new book. Also attaching list of 9 other books I'm be talking about.http://execsense.com/details.asp?id=1342  What to Learn from the Top 10 Architecture Books: 1. Vitruvius, 10 Books of Architecture; 2. Hiroshige, One Hundred Famous Views of Edo; 3. John May, Buildings Without Architecture: A Global Guide to Everyday Architecture; 4.Frank Lloyd Wright, American Master; 5. Hart Crane, The Bridge; 6. AIA Architectural Graphic Standards; 7. Carter Wiseman, Louis Kahn: Beyond Time and Style; 8. Ada Louise Huxtable, On Architecture; 9. Architecture for Humanity, Design as if You Give a Damn; 10. Thomas R. Fisher, In the Scheme of Things: Alternative Thinking on the Practice of Architecture
Comment on Rizzoli’s website:
Praise
"Diligent environmentalists John May and Anthony Reid have put together a book, Buildings Without Architects: A Global Guide to Everyday Architecture, that will change the way you view the art of dwelling design. Showcasing man's capacity for creation and ingenuity, the book reminds us that human beings the world over have built homes with nothing more than their own two hands and Mother Nature's rich resources... Buildings Without Architects evokes a time before electricity and advanced technology, before modernization and beaming skyscrapers when design grew out of resourcefulness and was, in fact, truly green." ~Zink
ON THE WEBSITE:

Neue Bücher bei Pro qm

Earth Architecture

Vernacular architecture, by its very nature, is built from local materials that are readily to hand and is thus defined by the geology and ecology of the region and by local climatic conditions. Constructed by the community using traditional tools, these structures are highly practical, energy-efficient, and blend with the landscape. They carry many of the attributes that we are now seeking in green architecture as we struggle to adapt our built environment to the demands and concerns of the climate-change era. ‘Handmade Houses and Other Buildings’ looks at everyday structures all over the world, from whatever wood, grass, earth or stone that was to hand, in ways that offered practical solutions to the challenges of climate or terrain. Based on immemorial principles, but highly relevant to our newly found environmental concerns, these buildings show the simple and satisfying ways in which humans have worked out how to live and live well, in harmony with their surroundings.
Book offered as a competition prize on BD Online

Handeye Magazine

Stepping into [Paul] Oliver’s shoes, author and journalist John May has compiled the slender and concise Building without Architects, a wonderful introductory and comprehensive visual guide of the different types of housing and dwellings from around the world that were created by anonymous builders...

 Whether it’s the simplicity and utility of early American Shaker buildings or the structural beauty and mechanical marvel of Dutch windmills that pique one’s curiosity, Building without Architects is a wonderful and informative reference guide that offers an ideal introduction for anyone who is interested in the disappearing traditions of handcrafted structures that combine beauty, form, and necessity.

BOHO IN LONDON

Our band BOHO is playing the first gig in London in its10-year history, as part of the ‘Dissenters Gallery’ season at The Inn on the Green in Ladbroke Grove. All welcome.

See Previous Post: THE BOHO STORY: A WORK IN PROGRESS

ON BEING 60

Performing live at Birthday Bash at Con Club, Lewes, on 30th April. Poem written specially for the occasion.

 

 

 

 

ON BEING 60

Woke up this morning to find I’m sixty

It was just another day

Except it has this big number attached

There was a huge bell tolling in the distance

And a raven pecking itself on the tv aerial outside my window

I stumbled to the bathroom

And found this old Apache man sitting in my ancient armchair

He gave me a look as if to say

Don’t worry its just another day

The phone rang

It was the tv licensing authorities

Questioning whether I’m watching the official channels

I explained my situation

And they said a stormtrooper truck would be round

To verify my situation

I seem to have woken up in some kind of nightmare

I remember a world of ice creams and doilies

Where humanity still existed

When vinyl was king

And the young people believed they could change the world

I was one of them

I went for a coffee

Sat down and read revolutionary poems

Written in ink on paper

Tried to imagine what it would be like

If all our dreams came true

Strutting my stuff down the street

Even the fish and chip man

Congratulated me

On reaching this august age

If you add six and oh it comes to nothing

All that exists is now.

The rest is memory or future projection

Only this moment

Is important

So, on being 60

Just getting into gear

Still planning to change the world

Still dreaming of a perfect life

Still hoping that together we can find a way through

There are two moons in the sky

I’m lying in a basement full of candles and angels

Hope springs

Love hurts

Dangerous feelings

Lurk

You want some wisdom

Some advice from the far side

Hold on to your heart

Cultivate a strong mind

Above all

Learn how to be a good friend

On being 60

You know what I think

I think its going to be alright for a while

Maybe now is exactly the best and right time

For me to fully express

How much I love you all

Hope so